BONES
Recently,
when my son returned home for spring break, the two of us sat down to watch the
new On
the Road with Jack Kerouac movie. As this was taking place my wife was
on her way out the door and asked if she needed to pick us up anything to eat.
Before I could respond, the kid shouts across the house…
“I want
Buffalo Wild Wings, make them boneless please.”
Well, at
least he said please, but boneless…really?
We have been
over this topic countless times before. In fact, we have been engaged in The
Great Bone Debate pretty much from the time he surfaced from the womb.
I felt so
ashamed. I felt as if I had failed him as a father, but as the years passed, I
realized that I wasn’t isolated.
Other people
my age had taken me into their confidence and shared howtheir children were
refusing bones as well.
Like many
pet peeves of mine, this tragedy got buried by more current nuisances, and life
went on as usual when my sons break was over, and I brought him back to a corn
field in Iowa to finish off his junior year.
However,
I’ll bet I didn’t even make it 48 hours until this maddening topic reared its
ugly head once more.
I was in
Minneapolis, on a loading dock, with a young chef, pimping bread while a semi
pulled in and the driver began to drag pallets of product past us.
Wouldn’t you
know it; one of the first things that caught my eye was a stack of boxes. Boxes
filled with boneless chicken.
The chef was
nice, and I didn’t want to offend, but I couldn’t resist and asked…
“Are those
for a special? You guys still sell meat on the bone, right?”
Now the
young guy smiles and jokingly responds…
“Well, if we
get a large party of older clients…we’ve been known to outsource.”
I began to
laugh and told the chef about the tension that meat bones had created within my
clan.
Then he said
something that caught me by surprise, it actually was quite brilliant…
“I know you
might have been in this industry longer than I’ve been alive, and I don’t doubt
that you’ve learned a lot of stuff, but just because something makes sense,
that doesn’t make it relevant.”
True Dat, I
thought as it occurred to me that the entire generation that followed mine has
been marketed to differently concerning food options.
And even though
our city, our state has strong initiatives that educate Minnesota’s youth on
how important nutrition is, everything eventually boils down to corporations
and marketing, doesn’t it?
Recently I
received one of the food industry publications that I never signed up for, but
somebody - somewhere thought it I was important enough to send it my way to
scan it real quick before tossing it in the trash. Often times the majority of
content in these rags are speculations as to what will be the next wave
concerning all things food.
One quote
that stuck out in my mind was from Christopher Muller who is Dean at Boston
University’s School of Hospitality Administration.
“If it can’t
be held in one hand, or a cup holder, don’t bother making it.”
I’ve heard
this theory before. It usually comes up when I’m sharing cocktails with
somebody else who works in hospitality. Usually somebody will mention how they
have a friend or relative that works in some realm of food development ideation
and although nobody is supposed to be privy to this inside information, it’s a
fact; Big Brother is going to have America consuming 75% of its meals in gas
stations.
Now the
young chef on the loading dock starts handling a loaf of my mustard dill bread
as if it were the Baby Jesus. Carefully he cradles this delicacy in his arms.
As his lips slowly prepare to part, I am prepared to thanks him for the
accolades, but my most recent recipe didn’t even get a mention.
“You know
that KFC is moving to boneless chicken right?”
I tilted my
head sideways for a second, kind of like your dog does when you pretend to
throw a chunk of meat but actually you palm it instead.
“Yeah-yeah,
I know that the Colonel makes chicken strips but…”
The was no
buts, my young colleague interrupted….
“No, I’m not
talking about ancillary items or menu safe harbors. They’re going to commit,
it’s official, the bone is getting tossed.’
When I asked
for a source, my bone hating friend smiled with pride when he announced (almost
as if he was friends with the guy) that it was covered by USA TODAY.
Later that
day when I returned to the plant, I hit Google and there it was, a lengthy
story written by Bruce Horovitz.
To
paraphrase the piece, it pretty much highlighted how KFC is going to shift its
focus from family meals to individual meals, and most of their sales are
projected to be boneless chicken.
But the part
that sunk the dagger into my heart was when I read their new ad slogan…
“I ATE THE BONES!”
I’m not even
sure if I know what that means, or if I want to, but I don’t think I like it.
So I’m still
in my office right? And I began pulling up data. I start listing quotes like
the one from Professor Jeffrey W. Savell / Leader of the Meat Science Section
in the Department of Animal Science at Texas A&M University…
“I believe
that cooking these steaks with the bone helps to form them so that they are
more uniform in thickness when cooked and protects the lean from being
overcooked.”
Then there’s
always Steven L. Moore, Director of Innovation at Brand Formula.
“Bone, in
many cases seals the muscle from losing meat juices as it is cooked. So when a
muscle is deboned there is usually a large area now that is exposed muscle, no
longer sealed to help maintain juices through cooking.”
So all of a
sudden, in the midst of compiling these quotes to defend my point, I’m pretty
sure I received an epiphany, hand delivered by the saints themselves.
“Why do you
toil Klecko? The kid was right… just because something makes sense, that
doesn’t make it relevant.”
Who can
argue with the saints, or Americas youth?
Sigh.
Tomorrow is already here.
ReplyDeleteIf you want to see a sad sight, sneak up sometime on one of those boneless poultry farms ... well, the bone-in farms aren't much better, mobility-wise.
ReplyDeleteGood piece!
I always thought there was a kind of virtue to eating a chicken leg carefully, getting near the bone, maximizing the benefit. I suspect this will mean larger portions, because the visual will be smaller -- you will want 6 drumsticks instead of 3 -- meaning more chickens will live those awful lives to get us through half time.
ReplyDeleteI think it's to get us used to eating chicken that can be make from liquid chicken.
ReplyDelete